The
monasteries of Mt. Athos are hundreds of years old, and hundreds and thousands
of monks have ended their earthly lives in them. But where are all of the
graves of the reposed? Can it really be that the monks just don’t consider it
necessary to take care to preserve the memory of their deceased brothers?
Purity
of soul
Anyone
that visits Mt. Athos’ monasteries will notice two peculiar things: first, even
large monasteries have small cemeteries with only a few wooden crosses mounted
in the ground; second, the oldest burials in these cemeteries are, at best,
twenty or so years old. But how could that be?
First
of all, let’s take note of the fact that Athonite monks are usually always
buried on Mt. Athos itself. However, it does sometimes happen though that an
Athonite monk due to various circumstances may end up living in another
monastery outside of Mt. Athos and thus will be buried there instead. For
example, at the Danilov cemetery in Moscow can be found the revered grave of
the Athonite monk Aristoklis (Amvrosiev), who for many years had presided over
the Athonite metochion in Moscow and thus was buried in Moscow after he
reposed. However, any monk that reposes on Mount Athos, even if he had come to
the Holy Mountain from another country for the first time, is not taken to his
homeland to be buried, but is buried at the same Athos monastery in which he
had reposed.
To
repose on the Holy Mountain, in fact, is actually considered a kind of
recognition of the deceased’s righteousness and almost a guarantee of the
salvation of his soul. An Athonite monk of our time, hieromonk Gabriel, would
always say, “What a joy it is to die on Athos! Here, the Mother of God herself
meets the monk after his death, guiding his soul on its way from Earth to
Heaven…”
On Mt.
Athos, according to tradition, the burial of the deceased is preceded by a
special rite. Also, the deceased monk’s clothes will not be changed and neither
will his body be washed before burial. On the one hand, proper hygiene is, of
course, always maintained; on the other, too much care for the body and health
in general is considered an unnecessary occupation, not worthy of a monk’s
time. And in fact, this manner of burial is not exactly something unique to
Athonite monasticism. For example, in the “Monastic Rite of Burial” we read the
following: “When a monk reposes in the Lord, it is not appropriate for his body
to be washed or be seen unclad.”
The
deceased instead will first be clothed in a “schema” and his head will be
covered with a “koukoulion” (attire worn by schemamonks). Afterwards, a cassock
is sewn over the body, serving as a coffin for the deceased, and an icon of the
Holy Virgin Mary is placed on his chest. It’s worth noting that usually during
burial procedure the icon of the Virgin Mary is only given to women, while men
are given the icon of the Savior. But, since Mt. Athos is considered to be a
place where the Mother of God is especially present, and according to belief,
is the first to meet the souls of the deceased, the funeral traditions that
have formed here are unique.
Generally
burial takes place on Mount Athos on the day of death and without a coffin, so
that the body may return unto the ground as soon as possible. Such a burial
practice is actually common in many religions and cultures. In particular,
Abrahamic religions adhere to this rule in accordance with the words that God
addressed to Adam before his exile from Paradise: In the sweat of thy face
shalt thou eat bread, till thou return unto the ground; for out of it wast thou
taken: for dust thou art, and unto dust shalt thou return (Gen. 3:19).
After
the customary prayer rule is read, the deceased monk is carried by his fellow
brethren to his place of rest and is buried. Afterwards, on top of the grave
the brethren mount a low four-pointed wooden cross on which, using simple
paint, is made the most concise inscription: the name of the monk and the date
of his death.
Stone
after stone
It
should be noted that the Athonite grave, that is, the very ground that the body
is buried under, is much different than it is elsewhere. For example, the
ground in Russia, which is mostly flatland, does not share in common any of the
burial-related problems that inhabitants of the Mediterranean and other
mountainous areas face. In Russia, the usual environment where the body of the
deceased is placed is usually a homogeneous, soft, crumbly mass: at best, it is
soil or sand; at worst—clay. On Mount Athos however there is nothing of the
sort. Mt. Athos is all stone. Sometimes the ground is just a single stone mass,
but more often it consists of cobblestones and large gravel. Soil on Mount
Athos is in deficit even more than wood is. Therefore, agriculture on the
peninsula is practically absent—there are no appropriate conditions for it. By
the way, some time ago in the past, the Russian Panteleimon monastery on Mt.
Athos had soil delivered to it by sea so that the monks, despite harsh conditions,
would nonetheless be able to plant a few gardens. During our trip we happened
to see some monasteries that had a bit of farmland, which at best had a few
dozen rows of cabbages and some kind of gourds. The largest garden we saw was
at the Great Lavra monastery, which had about 40 yards of land. And, no doubt,
the soil for this garden was also brought from elsewhere, for the ground around
the monastery is mostly all stone. As for the ground of the surrounding roads,
it is either siliceous or consists of dense red soil resembling something like
grated brick.
Now
let’s take a look at the following scenario: a monk in one of the Athonite
monasteries reposes in the Lord. In order to bury him, the brethren of the
monastery have to urgently fulfill an extremely laborious obedience—prepare the
place of burial for their deceased brother. Let us not forget that the
deceased, according to monastic customs, are buried as soon as possible,
usually on the very day of their death. Little by little, or rather, stone by the
stone, the hardworking monks, with their shovels ringing, dig through the rough
terrain of Mt. Athos. Finally, the grave is complete and the body of the
deceased brother is gently placed within. But now what? Will they really fill
the grave back up with all those stones and boulders they just dug up?! Of
course not—for a cause such as this they can’t find enough soil. Now let us
again keep in mind the deficit of soil on Mt. Athos, as this circumstance will
soon help us understand the reason behind other important burial customs on the
Holy Mountain.
With
the grave now covered and topped off with a small mound of earth, and the
wooden cross with its inscription mounted in place, the burial is complete.
Now, here is the incomprehensible part of the procedure to one who is not
familiar with Athonite burial customs: In just three years’ time the grave will
be dug up, and the deceased brother’s bones will never again return to their
former place of rest!
On Mt.
Athos, a monastery brotherhood prays for newly-reposed monks with especial
assiduousness. For the first 40 days, the entire brotherhood of the monastery
reads the customary prayer rule for the reposed, repeating it according to the
amount of knots on their prayer ropes. Also, in memory of the reposed monk, the
monastery prepares “kolivo” (also called “kutia” in Russia), a ritual memorial
dish which consists of some grain such as wheat, rye, oat, or rice, as well as
honey, raisins and nuts. Furthermore, for the following three years the
deceased is commemorated at every Liturgy during the proskomedia. Now bearing
in mind that the Divine Liturgy in the monasteries is served daily, this means
that the deceased monk receives commemoration every day and for quite a long
time. Finally, the name of the deceased is also recorded in a special memorial
monastery book, the so-called “Kuvaras”, which bears record of the names of all
the deceased monks that have lived in the monastery from the time of its very
foundation. For example, the “Kuvaras” of the Great Lavra monastery, read
during special memorial days, has been recording the names of its brethren to
this very day since the 10th century!
The
ossuary
After
three years have passed, the grave of the newly-reposed monk is carefully dug
up and the brethren now examine the remains of the deceased to see what state
they are in. If the soft tissues of the body are not completely decomposed yet,
the grave will be covered up in likewise manner and the following procedure
will be repeated again until it is clear that only the bones remain. By the
way, according to Athonite tradition, a body that is not “accepted by the
earth”, i.e., doesn’t decompose, is regarded as a sign that the monk did not
make the effort to lead a proper monastic way of life and that his soul has not
found rest in Heaven. In such case, the entire brotherhood begins to pray even
more diligently, beseeching the Lord for the forgiveness of sins and
purification of their fellow brother’s soul.
If the
bones of the deceased are completely free from flesh (and this, under the Athos
climate, while also taking into account the terrain, occurs most often in just
about three years), they are taken out of the grave, and after being thoroughly
washed with water and wine are transferred to the ossuary, which is a building
that resembles a chapel and is usually located somewhere nearby, outside the
walls of the monastery. As for the empty grave, it’s now ready to grant rest
for another three years to someone else after his repose.
So now
we know how Mt. Athos manages to solve the problem of soil deficit and why
there are so few graves in the cemeteries of these ancient monasteries. As it
turns out, there can’t possibly be too many graves, as there is a constant
“rotation” going on that many at first aren’t aware of.
Now an
ossuary is, in essence, a crypt. But the peculiarity of this crypt lies in the
fact that the deceased, or rather, their remains, are not hidden there, but are
in plain sight: the skulls are lined up in rows along the shelves, while the
other bones are neatly laid right on the floor along the walls. The names of
the monks and the date of their death are usually found written on each skull.
Here is how the well-known Russian writer Boris Zaitsev, who visited Mount
Athos at the beginning of the 20th century, described the ossuary of the Skete
of Saint Andrew: “The ossuary of St. Andrew’s Skete is a rather large, secluded
and well-lit room on an underground floor. Inside the ossuary is found a
cupboard with five human skulls. On each is inscribed a name and a date. These
were the abbots of the skete. Then on the shelves lay the skulls (about seven
hundred) of ordinary monks, which also have inscriptions. And, finally, what to
me seemed most incredible—small bones (the hands and feet) were neatly put together
in stacks near the wall, reaching up almost to the ceiling. All this was done
with the most profound care that is inherent to this kind of burial tradition.
It seemed to me that the only thing missing from this whole picture was a monk
that would spend time here keeping record of things and compiling biographies
of the reposed brethren. There is some literature present here as well. On the
wall here, by the way, hangs a saying that the brethren themselves composed:
“Remember, O brethren, that we were once like you, and you will once become
like us.”
Thus,
in such a manner do the Athonite monks lay at rest after reposing in the Lord,
with the ossuary basically serving them as a common mass grave. It’s also worth
noting that on Athos it is thought that the color of the skull of a reposed
monk is a sure sign of whether or not the monk’s life was well-pleasing to God.
Thus, according to this belief, the skulls of the righteous have a beautiful
yellowish shade—they look as though they are emitting light, and, sometimes
even produce a sweet-smelling scent; the monks that have honestly carried out
their monastic vows have white-colored skulls; and a dark colored skull, on the
other hand, signifies that the judgment of the departed monk’s soul due to his
sins did not have a positive outcome. The last case, however, is quite rare on
Mt. Athos.
Mt.
Athos’ ossuaries are never locked. Any inhabitant of the monastery can at any
time can enter the ossuary and in solitude reflect on the transience of life.
Looking at the bones of monks whom one once knew, or of those who had reposed
centuries ago, it is unlikely that one would not come to the thought that they
themselves will one day also find rest here along with their fellow brethren.
Now that is truly something to ponder for the monk… However, monks do not at
all fear ending up here in this gloomy house of bones, knowing for certain that
there is no need to fear death, for it has already been defeated by the Risen
Christ!
Yuri
Ryabinin
7/7/2017
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